L'Atmosphère 49 rue
Lucien-Sampaix, 10 e. Mº Gare-de-l'Est. Tues-Fri 11am-2am,
Sat & Sun 5.30pm-2am.
Next to the Canal St-Martin, this is a lively bar with food
and occasional live music. The Hôtel du Nord on the
opposite bank was the setting for the eponymous film of
1938, and the name of this bar comes from a quote in the
film.
Le Baratin 3 rue Jouye-Rouve, 20e. Mº
Pyrénées. Tues-Fri 11am-1am, Sat 6pm-1am.
Friendly, unpretentious bistrot à vins in a run-down
area with a good mix of people. Fine selection of lesser-known
wines and whiskies. Midday menu ?9.91.
Le Baron Aligre 1 rue Théophile-Roussel,
cnr place d'Aligre market, 12e. Mº Ledru-Rollin. Tues-Sat
10am-2pm & 5-9.30pm, Sun 10am-2pm.
Popular local bar. As well as the wines - around ?2.44 per
litre from the barrel to take away - it serves a few snacks
of cheese, foie gras and charcuterie .
Bistrot Cave des Envierges 11 rue des
Envierges, 20e. Mº Pyrénées. Wed-Fri
noon-midnight, Sat & Sun noon-8pm.
Another bistrot à vins purveying good-quality, lesser-known
wines to connoisseurs. An attractive bar - though more a
place to taste and buy wine than eat - in a great location
above the Parc de Belleville. From rue Belleville, follow
rue Piat south, which becomes rue des Envierges.
Café Charbon 109 rue Oberkampf,
11e. Mº Parmentier. Daily 9am-2am.
A very successful and attractive resuscitation of a fin-de-siècle
café, drawing a young and trendy clientele. Nice
plats du jour for ?7.62-9.15 at lunchtime; lots of salads
and vegetarian dishes. DJ Thurs, Fri & Sat 10pm-2am,
and live music on Sun from 8.30pm.
Café de la Musique 213 av Jean-Jaures,
19e. Mº Porte-de Pantin. Daily till 2am.
Part of the Cité de la Musique, this café,
with a popular terrace, was designed by the Cité
architect Portzamparc and exudes sophistication, discretion
and comfort, but be prepared to pay over the odds for a
coffee.
Cithea 112 rue Oberkampf, 11e. Mº
Parmentier. Daily 5pm-2am.
Bar and venue next door to the Café Charbon for Afro
funk, funk reggae, world beat, jazz fusion, etc on Thurs,
Fri & Sat nights. Cocktails ?6.86. No admission charge
for the music, but busy.
La Flèche d'Or 102bis rue de Bagnolet,
cnr rue des Pyrénées, 20e. Mº Alexandre-Dumas.
Daily 10am-2am.
A large, lively café attracting the biker, arty,
post-punkish Parisian young. The decor is très destroy
- ie railway sleepers and a sawn-off bus front hanging from
the ceiling - and the building itself is the old Bagnolet
station on the petite ceinture railway that encircled the
city until around thirty years ago. It's a nightly venue
for live world music, pop, punk, ska, fusion and chanson
, and the reasonably priced food also has a multicultural
slant.
Jacques-Mélac 42 rue Léon-Frot,
11e. Mº Charonne. Mon-Fri 9am-10.30pm; closed weekends
& Aug.
Some way off the beaten track (between Père-Lachaise
and place Léon-Blum) but a highly respected and very
popular bistrot à vins , whose patron even makes
his own wine - the solitary vine winds round the front of
the shop. The food ( plats around ?10.67, menu ?19.82),
wines and atmosphere are great; no bookings.
Le Penty Bar Cnr place d'Aligre &
rue Emilio-Castelar, 12e. Mº Ledru-Rollin.
Small, old-fashioned café making no concessions to
modern standards of sanitation, and still charging only
?1.07 for a sit-down cup of coffee.
Le Réveil du Dixième 35
rue du Château-d'Eau, 10e tel 01.42.41.77.59. Mº
Château-d'Eau. Mon-Sat 7.15am-9pm.
A welcoming, unpretentious wine bar serving glasses of wine
and regional plats or a menu at ?22.87 including wine.
La Ville de Jagannath 10 rue St Maur,
11e. Mº St-Maur. Closed Mon lunch and Sun.
Authentic vegetarian Indian food served in thalis. Lunch
menu ?7.62. For a small corkage fee you can bring your own
wine.
Restaurants
Les Amognes 243 rue du Faubourg-St-Antoine,
11e tel 01.43.72.73.05. Mº Faidherbe-Chaligny. Mon-Sat
noon-2.30pm & 7.30-10.30pm; closed Mon lunch, Sun &
two weeks in Aug.
Excellent, interesting food in a very popular place. Booking
essential. Menu at ?28.96, otherwise well over ?38.11.
Astier 44 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud, 11e
tel 01.43.57.16.35. Mº Parmentier. Mon-Fri until 10pm;
closed Aug, two weeks in May & two weeks at Christmas.
Very successful, popular restaurant, with simple decor,
unstuffy atmosphere and fresh, refined food. Booking essential.
Menu at ?21.34.
Bistrot du Peintre 116 av Ledru-Rollin,
11e tel 01.47.00.34.39. Mº Ledru-Rollin. Mon-Sat 7am-2am,
Sun 10am-8pm. Small tables jammed together beneath Art-Nouveau
frescoes and wood panelling. Traditional Parisian bistro
food, with plats du jour from ?9.45.
de Bourgogne 26 rue des Vinaigriers, 10e
tel 01.46.07.07.91 Mº Jacques-Bonsergent. Mon-Fri lunchtime
& evening till 10pm, Sat lunchtime only; closed Aug.
Homely, old-fashioned restaurant; dinner around ?12.19.
Chez Prune 36 rue Beaurepaire, 10e tel
01.42.41.30.47. Mº Jacques-Bonsergent. Mon-Sat 7.30am-1.45am,
Sun 10am-1.45am.
Lovely location for casual canal-side dining. Creative assiettes
(starting at ?6.10) guaranteed to tempt both meat-eaters
and vegetarians, and a romantic place to sip a glass of
wine orindulge in a dessert. Plats in the ?8.38 to ?12.20
range.
Les Cinq Points Cardinaux 14 rue Jean-Macé,
11e tel 01.43.71.47.22. Mº Faidherbe-Chaligny &
Mº Charonne. Mon-Fri noon-2pm & 7-10pm; closed
Aug.
An excellent, simple, old-time bistro, still mainly frequented
by locals. Prices under ?9.15 for lunch, and under ?15.24
in the evening.
L'Ébauchoir 43-45 rue de Cîteaux,
12e tel 01.43.42.49.31. Mº Faidherbe-Chaligny. Mon-Sat
until 11pm.
Good bistro fare in a sympathetic atmosphere. Best to book
for the evening. Midday menu for ?10.06; carte ?22.87 upwards.
Flo 7 cours des Petites-Écuries,
10e tel 01.47.70.13.59. Mº Château-d'Eau. Daily
until 1.30am.
Handsome old-time brasserie where you eat elbow-to-elbow
at long tables, served by waiters in ankle-length aprons.
Excellent food and atmosphere; good-value menus, including
wine, at ?21.04 and ?27.29.
La Fontaine aux Roses 27 av Gambetta,
20e tel 01.46.36.74.75. Mº Père-Lachaise. Tues-Sat
till 10pm; closed Sun evening, Mon & Aug.
Small, beautiful restaurant with first-rate menus: midday
?18.29 and evenings ?25.91, both including kir royale ,
wine and coffee.
L'Homme Bleu 57 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud,
11e. Mº Parmentier. Mon-Sat evenings only till 10pm.
Very affordable and pleasant Berber restaurant, popular
with students.
Julien 16 rue du Faubourg-St-Denis, 10e
tel 01.47.70.12.06. Mº Strasbourg-St-Denis. Daily till
1.30am.
Part of the same enterprise as Flo , with an even more splendid
decor. Same good traditional French cuisine at the same
prices, and it's just as crowded.
Lao Siam 49 rue de Belleville, 19e tel
01.40.40.09.68. Mº Belleville.
Daily till 11pm. Extremely good Thai and Lao food make this
folksy restaurant popular with locals. Dishes ?6.40-9.15.
La Mansouria 11 rue Faidherbe, 11e tel
01.43.71.00.16. Mº Faidherbe-Chaligny. Tues-Sat lunchtime
& evening till 11.30pm; closed two weeks in Aug.
An excellent, elegant Moroccan restaurant, serving superb
couscous and tagines . Menu at ?25.61.
Le Pacifique 35 rue de Belleville, 20e
tel 01.42.49.66.80. Mº Belleville. Daily 11am-1am.
A huge Chinese eating house with variable culinary standards
but low prices. Main courses from ?7.62, ?12.96 or ?15.24
menu.
Pho-Dong-Huong 14 rue Louis-Bonnet, 11e
tel 01.43.57.18.88. Mº Belleville. Daily except Tues
noon-10.30pm.
Spotlessly clean Vietnamese resto, where all dishes are
under ?7.62 and come with piles of fresh green leaves. Spicy
soups, crispy pancakes, but slow service.
Pooja 91 passage Brady, 10e tel 01.48.24.00.83.
Mº Strasbourg-St-Denis & Mº Château-d'Eau.
Daily noon-2.30pm & 5-11pm; closed Mon lunchtime.
Located in a passage that is Paris's own slice of the Indian
subcontinent; authentic, good-value Indian cuisine. Formules
at ?6.86 lunch and ?13.57 evening.
aux Rendez-Vous des Amis 10 av Père-Lachaise,
20e tel 01.47.97.72.16. Mº Gambetta. Mon-Sat noon-2.30pm;
closed last week July to mid-Aug.
Unprepossessing surroundings for very good, simple and satisfying
family cooking. Main courses ?6.86-11.89; menu at ?9.91.
Le Rendez-vous des Quais 10 quai de la
Seine, 19e. Mº Jaurès & Mº Stalingrad.
Daily 11.30am-12.30am.
Attached to the MK2 art-house cinema, the outside tables
of this café/brasserie sit right on the banks of
the Bassin de la Villette providing a relaxing spot for
a refreshment before or after the canal cruises which depart
opposite.
Rittal et Courts 1 rue des Envierges,
20e tel 01.47.97.08.40. Mº Pyrénées.
Tues-Sat noon-2am, Sun noon-7pm.
Mellow bar/café/trattoria which specializes in showing
"Courts Métrages"- short films (Tues-Sun
3.30-7pm, Sat midnight-2am). It's in an unbeatable situation
overlooking the Parc de Belleville: get a pavement table
on a summer evening and you'll have the best restaurant
view in Paris. The Italian food is tasty and affordable,
with a large pasta selection, including numerous vegetarian
options; ?7.62-13.72.
aux Saveurs du Liban 11 rue Eugène-Jumin,
19e. Mº Porte-de Pantin. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.
Excellent authentic Lebanese food at this tiny restaurant
in a lively local street not far from the Parc de la Villette.
Very good value with plats for ?4.57 and wine for ?1.37
a glass; sandwiches from ?2.74 to take away; ?6.10 lunchtime
formula.
Taï Yen 5 rue de Belleville, 20e
tel 01.42.41.44.16. Mº Belleville. Daily 10am-2am.
Admire the koi carps idling round their aquarium like embroidered
satin cushions while you wait for the generous soups and
steamed specialities of this Chinese restaurant. ?9.91 menu,
dishes from ?7.47.
Au Trou Normand 9 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud,
11e tel 01.48.05.80.23. Mº Filles-du-Calvaire, Mº
Oberkampf & Mº République. Mon-Fri lunchtime
& evenings till 9.30pm, Sat evenings only; closed Aug.
A small, totally unpretentious and very attractive local
bistro, serving good traditional food at knock-down prices.
Plat du jour from ?4.57.
Le Zéphyr 1 rue Jourdain, 20e tel
01.46.36.65.81. Mº Jourdain. Mon-Sat till 11.30pm.
A rather trendy but relaxed 1930s-style bistro with menus
at ?10.52 and ?19.82.